I had heard many stories about the beauty of mighty Annapurna but never got a chance to see it myself. Luckily in October 2021, I got a chance to go trekking on Annapurna Base camp with my three friends. I was excited about the journey. Especially excited to meet new people on the trail. Our plan for today was to reach Pokhara, so for the same, we caught our bus from Sorakhutte Tourist Bus Park, in Kathmandu at 6:30 A.M. It was a very cold morning but turned out to be a warm sunny later.  We reached Pokhara at around 3:30 P.M. Tihar was one week away, so the streets of Pokhara were livelier than other days.  The next day, our trek was to begin so we slept early that day even though we were in the city of Nepal that never sleeps.

Day 1: Pokhara to Lower Sinwa

Today was the big day. We woke up early, packed our bags, called the Scorpio Driver, and left for Matque from Prithvi Chowk, Pokhara. After three hours’ drive from Pokhara accompanied by Mt. Machhapurchre as the major view, we reached Matque. That was the point where our trek began. The first days are always exhausting, but we were really hoping to reach Upper Sinwa that day. It was 10:00 A.M when we reached Matque and after one hour of walk, we reached Jhinu Danda.  On our way, we saw the longest suspension bridge of the trail connecting Jhinu Danda and Simrung. Down of it was Modi Khola (river Modi), flowing with its highest current. From one of the guest houses, we watched the view while enjoying our “Dal Bhat Tarkari”. The food was cooked in a firewood which gave a smokey flavor to it. The atmosphere was really homely. Chomrong was our next destination for the day. So without a further due, we started our hike. The trail was paved with stones and the view was amazing. The mules are the only way to transport goods to the Annapurna Conservation Area, hence they had their own trail to walk. According to the locals, this was done to avoid the disturbance created by mules for the tourists walking on the trail. Jhinu Bridge, the longest suspension bridge during the ABC Trek Nearly after 2 and half hours of walk we reached Chomrong village. I was stunned to see the beauty of that village. People were so welcoming. They requested us to stay there that night but our target was to reach Upper Sinwa so we had to leave soon. We stayed and talked we the locals to know more about the village while enjoying our tea. An old man acknowledged that the Gurung tribes migrated from Ghandruk village many years ago then the Chomrong village was formed. It is always good to sit and chat with the locals. After a while we left for Lower Sinwa, waving Chomrong Village goodbye. The hike from Chomrong Village to Lower Sinwa is a total downhill. On our way down we registered our names on the Annapurna Conservation Area’s office. For safety purposes, registering your name along with your group members is a must. There were lots of Gumbas (Buddhist Monasteries) constructed by Locals as we went more of the downhill. We met one very sweet local lady. She told us about the hand-woven woolen clothes and accessories which were made by ladies of Chomrong village for the trekkers. Nearly after 2 hours of walk, we reached Lower Sinwa. It was getting dark so we changed our plan and stayed at a Sherpa Hotel at Lower Sinwa.  That night we ate Dal Bhat Tarkari and slept early.

Day 2: Lower Sinwa to Himalaya

Morning on Lower Sinwa was very misty that day. We saw no view at all but the energy to reach base camp was the same. Usually the breakfast there are Gurung Breads made by locals.  We thanked the hotel owners for such warm hospitality and started our trek again. After one hour we reached Upper Sinwa. We didn’t stop there as we had to reach Bamboo for our lunch. The trail from Upper Sinwa to Bamboo is through dense Rhododendron and oak forests. I was losing myself in the tranquility of the woods. Upper Sinwa, showing the glimpse of Mt. Machhapurchre (6,993 m) After 2 and half hours of walk, we reached Bamboo. We stayed there for lunch. To be honest it was the best meal I had throughout the trip. The pickle made out of gundruk (fermented mustard leaves) was the best. I asked hotel owner Pramila didi about the recipe too. She was kind enough to share it with me. We thanked her and headed to Dovan. The trek from Bamboo to Dovan is the same. An uphill trek covered with oak jungle. The main attraction was bird watching while you are on the trail. Morning at Dovan with blessing of Mt. Macchpuchhre (6,993 m) When we reached Dovan I was surprised to see the prices of coffee same as some of the restaurants in Kathmandu Valley.  Dovan is the place where you can sit and chill for some time. The location of Dovan on the upper edge of the deep gorge has been well utilized for a micro hydropower plant. When we walked a little further from Dovan there was a huge waterfall rushing into the Modi Khola and a small shrine called Pojo Nim Baraha. An old man who we met at Bamboo had mentioned to us about this Temple. It is worshipped as a huge source of energy by the Gurungs. During major festivals of Hindus and Buddhist, people go there and worship. None of the trekkers are allowed to carry meat with them after crossing Bamboo. This was to offer respect to the temple. Also, we are not allowed to spit or excrete on the trail as it is considered to be a holy place. Passing the temple and after walking a bit we reached Himalaya. It was our last destination for the day. Waterfall seen from Pojo Nim Baraha Temple. On our night stay at a hotel in Himalaya, we made a few new friends. Singing and enjoying the food in the dining hall and chatting with the owner of the hotel made us fresh from the long walk of the day. The hotel owner Aakash Dai told us that they make toasts, Gurung bread, and other bakery items in the hotel itself.

Day 3: Himalaya to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)

Morning in the Himalaya was very pleasant. Our breakfast view for that day was Mt. Machhapurchre which made us start our trek early. The friends we had made in Himalaya were going towards the Base camp too so we got company while trekking uphill. After walking a few minutes from Himalaya, we walked past a huge rock formation called, Hinku Cave. It was the perfect viewpoint for the first up-close view of Mt. Machhapuchre. After that, we kept following the trail with a gradual ascent along the Modi Khola. View of Deurali From Hinku Cave. Reaching Deurali made me realize that I was in a different world itself. The sky was clear so we stopped for a tea break. There a local helped us spot a white painting of what looks like a naturally carved stone resembling Buddha on one of the surrounding hills.  They talked about it as a mysterious painting on a rock that looks inaccessible from any of the sides. We then headed for the Machhapurchre Base Camp (MBC). The higher I went, the more connected I felt with the mountains. On the way, there came an avalanche risk zone. We had to walk with more care and patience. After crossing that trail there was a very tiring uphill but we somehow reached MBC.  We couldn’t see the mountain when we reached there because the weather was getting worse, but we sat inside one of the hotels and had our lunch. Staying a few hours at MBC was mandatory as we had to acclimatize. The cold wind was hitting the hotel windows as we had our lunch. There is no phone charging facility at Annapurna Base Camp so we charged all our devices at MBC. After a few hours we started our trek. Machhapucchre Base camp at an elevation of 4130 m As we took small steps toward Annapurna Base Camp, I started to feel a little emotional. It had been my dream to reach there for so many years and I couldn’t believe I would be there in less than an hour. The weather started to get worse. And then it started to snow but it was more like a blessing. When the mountain calls there is always a reason and maybe that day the first snowfall of the season was our reason to be there. It was my first experience of snowfall at such an altitude, which made me cry happy tears. In a while, we reached ABC. The prayer flags welcomed us to the base camp. It was getting dark so we ate our dinner and started to talk with other travelers in the hotel. Everyone was planning to wake up early for sunrise so we too went into our room. At 1 A.M I awoke up to see the Milky Way galaxy from outside the hotel. The sky was all clear with star trails and the mountains were shining in the moonlight. I still feel goosebumps remembering that view.  I couldn’t wait for the dawn to see the more clear view.

Day 4: Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) to Dovan

Sunrise from Annapurna Base Camp. We reached the viewpoint before sunrise and waited for the sunrays to hit the mountains. When the sun rays created a magical glitter on the Himalayas peaks in the morning, I was left spellbound with the stunning 360 degrees panoramic view of the 10^th Highest Mountain on earth i.e Mt. Annapurna I (8091 m).  I was grateful to be surrounded by a series of mountains - Mt. Annapurna I (8091 m), Annapurna III (7219 m), Annapurna South (7219 m), Gangapurna (7455m), Machhpurchhre (6993m), Baraha Shikhar/ Annapurna Fang (7647m), Hinchuli (6441 m), Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak). Being so close to the Himalayas made me feel so contained and fulfilling and I did not want to go back but we had to leave. Saying goodbye is the hardest part of the journey but I felt so lucky to have come that far. We waved our hardest goodbye to the mountains and all the people there. While going downhill from ABC to MBC we experienced the best walk on the trail. It was sunny and we had a perfect panoramic view of mountains helping us to trek our way down. That day we were planning to reach Dovan as it was all the way downhill. Downhill Trail from ABC to MBC Finally, after 8 to 9 hours of a long walk, we reached Dovan. That was a night to remember. All the friends we had made on the trail had stayed in the same hotel. So we had like a mini celebration of seeing the best view that day. We sang, danced, and cheered for everyone who climbed all the way to base camp and made it up to the destination. The hotel owner made us feel like we were one of his family members. That’s the best thing about Nepali people. No matter who you are, they treat you as their own.

Day 5: Dovan to Chomrong

Many travelers there were planning to reach Matque jeep station that day but we decided to stay on Chomrong because we were fascinated by the Chomrong village and its beauty. So we climbed down to Chomrong village from Dovan. After 7 hours we reached the village. Watching sunrise glow Himalayas from the Chomrong Village.

Day 6: Chomrong to Pokhara

The sky was clear that day so we ate our breakfast and headed for Matque. A hot spring bath at Jhinu, the natural spring is something one shouldn’t miss on this trip while descending back. Later, at Matque we caught our jeep and drove back to Pokhara. I will forever be grateful to have done this trek. To the people I came across this trail and for all the beautiful memories made for life.