Bhat and Bhateni with their child Bal Gopal suspended from an eagle’s claws are taken out of their Temple annually on the occasion of Gahana Kojne Jatra of Handigau. Tangal road, Kathmandu.
In the ethereal realms of their celestial shrine at Bhatbhateni temple, Bhat and Bhateni, both deities are depicted floating above the earth, as their sacred feet must never contact the mortal ground. Suspended likewise in the heavens is their child Bal Gopal, hovering on the left side suspended from an eagle’s claws.
Legend of Bhatbhateni
In the ancient borough of Handigaun, Vishalnagar lived an elderly Brahmin duo, Sudev and Sudevi who had devoted their lives to the worship of Vishnu. Their exemplary devotion earned them divine favor and the epithet Bhat Bhateni. Pleased by their faithfulness, Lord Vishnu appeared before them to grant them a boon. Sudevi, overwhelmed by maternal desire, implored, “Grant us a son who embodies all our virtues!” Vishnu, moved by her plea, responded, “In this life, you are advanced in years for such a wish, but it shall be fulfilled in your next incarnation.”
Reincarnated as Brahmins, again in Vishalnagar, Sudev and Sudevi were reunited in matrimony, and as promised in their past life Sudevi bore a son. Despite their impoverished circumstances, their devotion of Lord Vishnu in this life were far beyond their modest means.
Their lives took a pivotal turn when a hermit, Suddhadev, sought refuge in their humble house. Aware of their modest reputation, he intentionally left his walking stick behind that secretly housed gold ornaments when he departed for a twelve-year pilgrimage. As the years waned, the destitute couple’s poverty further deepened by the birth of a son.
Suddha Dev was gone for eight years when the walking stick he left behind started to decay revealing its golden contents. Sudev-Sudevi struggling by the necessities of child-rearing, sold the ornaments, believing and hoping, the elderly pilgrim would never return. However, one day as Sudevi lovingly bathed and oiled their son under the sun’s warmth, Suddhadev unexpectedly reappeared, demanding his walking stick. To which the couple claimed, that it was destroyed by moths.
Deceived Suddhadev gazed skyward in despair, only to witness an eagle circling above. He then uttered a harsh curse: “If moths can consume my walking stick, then surely that eagle can claim your child.”
To Sudevi’s horror, the eagle descended swiftly seizing the son Bal Gopal and soaring into the heavens. Driven by desperation and their accumulated spiritual merits, the couple too miraculously ascended in pursuit. At that moment, the hermit revealed his divine form. He was none other than the couple’s beloved God Vishnu-Narayan, astride His vehicle Garuda.
Their unwavering devotion to their deity had not gone unnoticed. Vishnu, moved by their loyalty in this and past lives, decreed, “You shall dwell in the heavens, forever revered as deities, for you have remained true to your faith.”
To this day, the celestial images of Bhat and Bhateni, and their divine son, Bal Opal, float majestically above their earthly shrine in Bhatbhateni, a perpetual reminder of their eternal devotion and divine grace. Their feet, as decreed, never touch the ground, but the hanging deities facing West unlike any other deities who always face east is unexplained to date.
Bhatbhateni Temple Complex
The pagoda-style, two-storey Bhat Bhateni Temple stands at a crossroad on Tangal Road. Inside the temple, the hanging statues of Bhat and Bhateni and their son clasped by an eagle face West, unlike any other deities who always face east. The Bhat is a god and has a red face, while Bhateni is a goddess with a yellow face; both are adorned with garlands and offerings. Bhatbhateni is also revered as Vishnu and Laxmi incarnations.
The Bhatbhateni temple’s golden roof is topped by a Gajur (pinnacle), an essential feature of any Nepali temple. From the pinnacle drops, three ornate golden Patakas–two long and one short, finishing just above the temple door. Patakas are long strips that hang from the top of Hindu temples in Nepal symbolizing ladders from heaven for the gods and goddesses to descend to earth to listen to the prayers of their devotees. Both the roofs are adorned with ornate filigree, and the bottom one has Devanagari script inscribed, which reads, “renovated by Shri Paanch Mahendra Bikram Shah Dev in 2016 BS (1959 AD)”
The golden temple door is embellished with embossed floral designs. Gods Ganesh and Kumar flank either side of the door along with golden Nepali flags. The door is guarded by a pair of lions. The Torana above the door remains encased behind a lattice bar.
On the top floor walls, one can notice the offerings of household utensils. Legend has it that the home utensils nailed on temple walls belonged to widows who underwent the Sutee tradition with their dead husbands. Along with these items they also have some ammunition like knives and swords are nailed which are not related to women’s kitchen home appliances. According to others, the practice of nailing household utensils was carried out when one’s wishes were fulfilled by the Bhatbhateni.
The ground storey walls are decorated with the statues of Astamatrikas, the eight mother goddesses—Brahmyani, Maheshwari, Kaumari, Vaishnavi, Barahi, Chamunda, Mahalaxmi, and Indrayani. The western wall also features Kawancha (the skeleton) and Khyah (the ghost). According to Newar folklore, Khwancha is a demon of misfortune and illness that lives in the underworld and appears at a crossroads to cause stomach pains but also cures them when appeased with suitable offerings. Khwancha attends to Shiva and Kali’s. Khyah, a mythical ape-like creature is said to bringgood fortune if white and misfortune if. Khyah attends to Laxmi, the goddess of wealth.
Praying to Bhatbhateni
Bhat and Bhateni are revered as guardian deities who protect households that worship them. Many Nepalese uphold the tradition of visiting the temple for sacred rites of passage, such as weddings, weaning ceremonies, and coming of age ceremonies for Hindu boys and girls, etc.
In daily life, Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays hold special significance, with devotees visiting the temple to seek blessings. Bhatbhateni sees a massive influx of devotees during the Nauratha (Navaratri) or Dashain festival when prayers and offerings are made in abundance.
Additionally, the Brahmin couple is also worshiped to seek cures for children’s diseases including physical and mental disabilities, or to relieve children possessed by evil spirits.