Jewellery of The Terai

It’s interesting to note that the use of ornaments in different cultures is often associated with religious and cultural beliefs. In Hinduism, for example, certain materials and pieces of jewellery are closely tied to specific deities and symbols. Gold, for instance, is associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, and also with the sun, which is considered immortal and sacred.

In Terai (plains) region in Southern Nepal known for its rich cultural heritage, people have a strong aesthetic sense and a fondness for jewellery. Women in particular enjoy adorning themselves with ornaments made from various materials, including gold and silver. Wealthy individuals often prefer gold jewellery, while aristocratic people may even opt for diamonds.

Overall, the use of ornaments can serve multiple purposes, from expressing personal style to symbolizing religious and cultural beliefs.

Pure gold is widely regarded as the only acceptable material for making jewellery in the Terai region of Nepal. Even those from the lowest social strata strive to acquire gold as it is considered an invaluable possession that can be sold to meet essential expenses. Some individuals may settle for gold alloys with as little as forty per cent gold content.  For those who cannot afford gold, silver is a popular alternative. It is often used by people who have limited income sources.

But, gold jewellery is rarely worn on the legs instead, it is customarily seen adorning the nose, ears, neck, arms, fingers, and forehead. Beyond their decorative function, armlets, bracelets, and rings are believed to provide protection from the evil eye, enhance astrological and planetary effects, and even inspire poetic imagination.

Terai people wear jewellery as part of their daily household routine, and it is a prominent part of bridal attire.

The Necklaces

One of the most popular types of jewellery in the Terai region of Nepal is the multi-coloured gold necklace. It is cherished by both the wealthy and the less fortunate and is available in a variety of designs. Married women wear a necklace called a Mangal Sutra in the Maithili language, which is an essential part of the wedding ceremony. It represents that the wearer’s husband is alive and is given to the bride by the groom during the ceremony.

The necklace is just one of several pieces of jewellery worn by the bride and is a symbol of womanhood, fertility, and life-giving force.

The neck is considered an important body part, and jewellery such as gold chains and necklaces viz, Hasulis and Haars designed flat or twisted, engraved or set with stones, are used to adorn it. The haars and hasulis designs are often inspired by nature. The mangal sutra holds great significance in the community as a ritual necklace that denotes the marital status of women. Jewellery holds many purposes, from decorative to ritualistic, and even utilitarian, and it’s no surprise that women in the Terai region have an immense fascination for it. However, upon the death of the husband, it is a tradition for the wife to throw the mangal sutra into the river as it is taboo for a widow to wear it, making it a wise act on the husband’s part.

Earrings

Southern Nepal women have a tradition of adorning their ears with various types of jewellery, for which they must undergo painful ear piercings. They pierce not only the lobes but also the conch, helix, and even the targus of their ears to display an array of extravagant ear adornments.

Typically, married women wear hoop earrings as part of their ear adornment, with Kundal and Mundra being two popular designs. The ancient practice of wearing ornaments from head to toe includes Mangaltika and Singarpatty, colourful hair clips, and ornaments for the jooda, (hair buns) including chand-suraj made of silver or gold, which are believed to protect against the sun’s scorching rays. It is believed that these forms of ornaments can also absorb heat from the sun and prevent direct exposure to harmful rays, which is particularly useful for women who spend a lot of time outdoors.

Interestingly, certain parts of the ear are considered pressure points, and piercing them is believed to prevent diseases such as asthma. And women from poverty-stricken areas may have piercings in hunger points of their body, which can potentially reduce their need for food.

Mangaltika: Is a hair pendant that dangles on the forehead through parted hair.
Singarpatty: Is the side strand starts at mangaltika and other end attached to one ear.
Chand-Suraj: A hairclip having moon and sun motifs.

Nose Pins, Hoops, Nakbeshar and Bulaki

In Nepal Terai, nose ornaments are a popular adornment for women and are often worn to symbolize their marital status. The nose ring is also a reflection of a woman’s social and economic status in the community, and it represents purity. The Maithili term for the nose ring is “Nath,” and it is believed that breaking the nath is equivalent to breaking the purity of womanhood.

Nath: This tradition is closely linked to North Indian Hindu culture, and the Terai Hindus tend to follow Indian jewellery styles more than those from the hilly regions of Nepal. The nath, a nose hoop, is an essential part of a bride’s jewellery and is common in North Indian culture. It is a thin gold hoop that ranges from three to ten centimetres in diameter and is usually decorated with precious stones or beads such as rubies. The nath is worn by piercing the left nostril, and a chain connects it to the ear or ear danglers. While it is primarily worn by married women, it is also worn on special occasions such as the Teej festival.

Nakbeshar:  Similar to a Nath, a Nakbeshar is also a nose hoop that is large in size and decorated in yellow, orange, or red in colour and is mainly worn by a bride during her wedding ceremony

Bulaki: Bulaki is yet another nose ornament that people of Terai love. A dangler is worn through the nose septum until the lower lip and used as an everyday ornament.

Jhop or Phulee: Lastly, a pin worn on the right side of the upper portion of the nose is called a Jhop in a regional language and Phulee in Nepali. It is made of gold and studded with diamonds.

Glass Bangles

The Churi is a very popular glass bangle and they are worn on wrists as a symbol of womanhood. When the churi wearer moves, they make a pleasant tinkling sound which, especially in the case of a new bride is considered sensual.

They are made in various shades of colours, but the red and green ones are particularly favoured by married women. Women often wear 1 dozen churi on either hand bracketing them with gold bangles of identical sizes. Broken glass bangles are inauspicious to anyone and they are immediately thrown away when they are cracked or broken. Red bangles are chosen and preferred for the wedding ceremony. A married woman is supposed to wear red bangles as long as her husband is alive and is ritually broken at the death of their husband.

The Muslim communities in Nepal and India make these glass bangles.

Gold Bangles 

The popular accessory among all groups of women in Nepal Terai is the Bala which refers to thick gold bangles worn alone or in combination with churis. They are typically around 2.5 centimetres in diameter and can be made from a combination of silver and gold. Balas may feature depictions of open-mouthed creatures such as the tiger-mouthed (bagh mukhi) or a lion face. They are a beloved accessory for women in the region.

Finger Ring 

A type of ring that can be worn by both genders is known as Aunthi. However, it is particularly popular among women. These rings are usually made of gold and adorned with precious stones, which are selected by astrologers or priests. These stones are believed to have a positive effect on the wearer’s life based on their associated planet. Coral, which is often carved with an image of Ganesh, is a popular choice. Another favoured design is the Nau-Ratna, a ring featuring a horoscopic arrangement of nine precious stones representing the nine planets.

Each planet is associated with a different day of the week, which in turn is dedicated to a specific deity. For example, Monday is associated with Shiva and its stone is pearl (Moti), Tuesday with Hanuman and its stone is coral (munga), Wednesday with Buddha and its stone is emerald (Panna), Thursday with Brishaspati and its stone is yellow sapphire (Pusparaj), Friday with Shukra and its stone is diamond (hira), Saturday with Shani and its stone is blue sapphire (Neelam), and Sunday with Surya and its stone is red ruby (manik). These planets are considered powerful, and the nau-ratna with its nine gemstones is believed to ward off negative influences.