April 17, 2025
For the first time ever while preparing for a trek my nerves gripped me tightly. The thought of reaching an altitude of 5,416 meters was both exhilarating and daunting. I was about to embark on the Annapurna Circuit Trek—a journey into one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the world. The feeling was indescribable, a mix of anticipation and uncertainty, unlike anything I had ever known until I stood at the starting line of this adventure.
The journey began in Kathmandu, with the city, still cloaked in the early morning darkness. By 5:30 AM, our vehicle was navigating the winding roads, leaving the bustling capital behind. As dawn broke, the pale hues of the morning sky painted a serene picture against the backdrop of the Prithvi Highway. One of Nepal’s lifelines, this highway stretched ahead like a ribbon unrolling into the distant hills. The fresh air rushed through the windows, carrying with it the scent of damp earth and the faint aroma of roadside tea stalls waking up for the day and alongside the roaring Trishuli River.
As we made our way toward Lamjung, the heart of the Annapurna Circuit’s starting point, the highway gradually gave way to smaller, less busy roads. The transition from urban to rural was seamless yet profound—a gentle shift where the concrete faded into rolling hills and winding rivers, a reminder that this trek was not just about conquering Thorong La Pass but about embracing the untamed beauty and raw essence of Nepal's landscapes.
After an eight-hour ride, we finally reached Lamjung and took a short break before continuing our journey. Our next ride was a shared Bolero, taking us toward Bhratang’s famous Apple Farmhouse, where we planned to spend the night. The road to Bhratang was anything but easy—a narrow, bumpy off-road trail winding through the hills. Along the way, we were treated to a stunning view of the Octopus Waterfall. Its cascading streams were mesmerizing and felt like a hidden treasure in the middle of the rugged terrain.
As darkness fell, the journey became more thrilling. The cold night air and the uneven roads added to the adventure, making every turn an experience to remember. We passed through Chame, a lively village where many trekkers stay overnight, but we decided to push forward to Bhratang. After what felt like an endless ride, we finally arrived at the Apple Farmhouse at around 10 PM. The warm, cozy atmosphere immediately made us feel at home. The farmhouse’s unique architecture and the friendly host made it the perfect place to unwind after a long, adventurous day. It was the ideal start to what promised to be an unforgettable trek.
It began with a delightful breakfast at the Apple Farmhouse, featuring apple jam, apple pancakes, and freshly pressed apple juice—a perfect start to an exciting day. After a quick visit to the apple orchard, we set off on a 45-minute ride to Blue Lake in Humde, still in the trusty Bolero. The sun was shining, the road was smoother, and the breathtaking mountain views surrounded us, making the journey feel magical.
When we reached Humde, we decided to leave the Bolero behind and continue on foot. Just six minutes into the walk, we stumbled upon the stunning Blue Lake. It was a sight straight out of a dream—its crystal-clear waters shimmered like a masterpiece painted by nature itself. We spent two peaceful hours by the lake, soaking in its beauty, snacking on protein bars, and taking photos to remember the moment.
With our spirits high, we began the trek toward our next destination: Manang Valley. The trail took us through charming villages and past serene gumbas (monasteries), each adding its charm to the journey. By evening, we reached Manang Valley and checked into Alpine Homes, a cozy stay with charming cottages and a warm, friendly host who made us feel right at home. It was the perfect end to a day filled with natural wonders and adventure.
The day began with a peaceful morning walk to Gangapurna Lake, just ten minutes from Alpine Homes. As we neared the lake, its beauty left us speechless. Surrounded by towering snow-capped peaks, the turquoise water sparkled like countless tiny crystals catching the soft morning sun. The serene setting, with the Annapurna range perfectly reflected on the lake’s still surface, felt almost magical.
We found a tea shop by the lake and took a small tea break, letting the warmth of the tea and the crisp mountain air refresh us. The gentle ripples of the water and the quiet rustle of the surrounding trees created a sense of calm that made it hard to leave. It was one of those moments where time seemed to pause, letting us fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of nature.
After soaking in the tranquility of Gangapurna Lake, we returned to Alpine Homes, packed up our bags, and bid farewell to the charming Manang Valley. Our trek continued toward Khangsar, our destination for the day. With every step, the landscape transformed, revealing new layers of beauty as we ventured deeper into the Annapurna region. The promise of more adventures ahead kept our spirits high as we moved closer to the next chapter of our journey.
My personal Letter to “Manang Valley”.
Dear Manang,
You feel untouched by the rush of the modern world, pristine in a way that’s rare! It’s as if the valley guards its secrets fiercely, choosing who gets to witness your magic! The mountains stand tall, ancient and silent, watching over the land like wise old storytellers! Every corner of you holds a history that many can’t see but can somehow feel—a quiet hum in the wind, a whisper in the rustle of prayer flags and old Gumbas!
I found myself losing track of time, not because it didn’t matter but because it didn’t exist here in the way it does back home! I walked paths that seemed carved for contemplation, gazed at mountains that held the wisdom of millennia, and felt an inexplicable connection to a place I’d only just met!!
- Pratigya!
The morning in Khangsar was crisp and energizing, a perfect start to a day that promised adventure and challenge. We packed our bags early, ready for the six-hour trek ahead. The trail greeted us with a serene calm, and after trekking for about an hour and a half, we reached an old Gumba perched gracefully in front of a towering mountain. The Gumba felt timeless, its simplicity blending effortlessly with the rugged beauty of the surroundings. We spent some quiet moments there, talking to a local monk who shared stories of his life and devotion. It was a peaceful pause, a connection to the spirituality of the mountains before the trek continued.
Our next stop was Shree Kharka, where we arrived just in time for lunch. The “Dal Bhat Tarkari” we had there was simple yet comforting—fuel for the rest of the day’s journey. At 4,000 meters, the altitude made its presence felt, so we took a two-hour break to acclimatize. Sitting there, surrounded by awe-inspiring mountain views, gave us a moment to reflect on how far we’d come.
From Shree Kharka, the trail turned wild. We knew we were approaching the landslide area, and the anticipation of what lay ahead was both exciting and nerve-wracking. The walk to the tea house before the landslide zone was steady and gave us time to prepare mentally. After a quick tea break, we started the most challenging part of the day.
The landslide area was unlike anything I had ever experienced. The trail was steep, narrow, and unforgiving. Every step required focus and my heart raced as loose gravel crunched underfoot. The mountain loomed above us, while below, the drop felt endless. It was the kind of trail that makes you question your limits but also reminds you of your strength.
Despite the fear and exhaustion, we made it safely to Tilicho Base Camp. Reaching there was a mix of relief and triumph. The cozy tea houses, surrounded by towering peaks, offered a safe haven after a day of pushing our boundaries. As I sat down to rest, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude—for the journey, the challenges, and the incredible beauty of the Annapurna region that had unfolded before us.
Day 5: The Ascent to Tilicho Lake
The day began at 4 a.m., under a blanket of silence and stars. The world was asleep, but my heart raced with a mix of doubt and anticipation. Guided by headlamps and the faint glow of the moon, we set out into the cold, dark morning. Each step felt heavy, yet it carried the hope of witnessing something extraordinary with the first light of day.
As we climbed, the moonlight began to fade, replaced by a golden hue spreading across the horizon. The sun slowly kissed the snow-draped peaks, its rays breathing life into the surrounding mountains. The beauty was indescribable, a silent encouragement to keep moving forward.
The trail was a mix of loose rocks and steep cliffs, with the wind whispering both warnings and wonders. It was humbling—each step a reminder of how fragile yet resilient we can be in the face of nature. The infamous 22 ghumti lay ahead, a series of zigzagging trails that seemed endless. Each turn brought new challenges, but also unveiled more of the breathtaking mountain panorama that surrounded us.
And then, after hours of climbing, Tilicho Lake revealed itself. At 4,919 meters, it sat still and serene, cradled by the towering peaks like a sacred jewel of the Himalayas. The sight was overwhelming—its shimmering blue waters reflecting the sky and the sheer magnitude of the mountains around it. Standing there, I felt small yet infinite, fragile yet strong.
The journey to Tilicho Lake wasn’t just a trek; it was an awakening. It tested my limits, revealed my vulnerabilities, and left me with a deep sense of gratitude—for nature, for the effort it took to reach this place, and for the reminder that the most rewarding views often come after the hardest climbs.
After soaking in the beauty of Tilicho Lake, we decided to push ourselves further and trek back to Shree Kharka the same day. It was an ambitious stretch, and the journey turned out to be one of the toughest of the trek.
As the sun dipped below the mountains, we found ourselves walking under the cover of darkness. The trail was challenging, and crossing the suspension bridge at night, with only our headlamps lighting the way, was both nerve-wracking and unforgettable. Every step felt heavier, but the thought of reaching Shree Kharka kept us moving.
Late into the night, we finally arrived at Shree Kharka, exhausted but relieved. The warm glow of the hotel felt like a reward after a grueling day, marking the end of a truly demanding yet memorable adventure.
The morning in Shree Kharka was calm and easy, giving us a chance to rest and recover. We started the day late, enjoying a hearty breakfast and lunch before setting off. Our goal for the day was Ledar, and as we began walking, the trail introduced us to a whole new side of the mountains.
The path to Yak Kharka felt magical. Vast yak grazing lands stretched out before us, with rocky outcrops that looked like ancient castles. From a hilltop, we could see Manang Valley far below, a tiny speck surrounded by towering peaks. Unlike the rugged, barren trails to Tilicho Base Camp, this route was dotted with greenery, adding a refreshing charm to the journey.
The walk was steady but challenging, with gentle ups and downs to keep us on our toes. Crossing a suspension bridge was a small adventure of its own, and after four hours, we reached Yak Kharka. We took a much-needed tea break there, soaking in the peaceful surroundings before continuing our trek.
As we moved further, the trail grew quieter. For the first time, we didn’t come across a single trekker. It felt like the mountains were ours alone, and the solitude was both humbling and calming.
The last part of the trek was tough. Walking in the dark without knowing what lay ahead tested our nerves, but we kept going. Finally, after a long day, we reached Ledar. The night was freezing, colder than any we had experienced so far, but we were just happy to have made it.
Snuggled up in the warmth of the fireplace in the hotel, we reflected on the day. It had been a quiet, beautiful, and challenging journey, one that made me feel deeply connected to the mountains and myself.
Day 7 was special—it was the highest altitude we would be spending the night at, Thorang High Camp at 4,800 meters. With excitement and a little nervousness, we started our trek, knowing this day would bring us closer to the heart of the mountains.
The trail wasn’t easy. We carefully crossed a landslide and rockfall area, where every step demanded focus. After that, we reached Thorang Phedi, a small stop nestled in the mountains. We rested there for lunch and stayed for two hours to acclimatize. Sitting there, surrounded by towering peaks, reminded us of how far we had come and how much more there was to experience.
The climb from Thorang Phedi to High Camp was steep and relentless. Every step upward felt like a small victory. When we finally reached High Camp, it was a wave of relief and accomplishment. We were welcomed by a breathtaking view—clouds floated close to the mountains, and for the first time, it felt like we were walking above the sky.
The evening brought its own magic. As darkness fell, the sky lit up with countless stars, and the sight of star trails was mesmerizing. Dinner at the High Camp dining hall was a lively affair. Packed with trekkers from around the world, it felt like a bustling canteen of stories and laughter. Despite being the only Nepali trekkers there, we felt a sense of belonging among the shared excitement of the journey.
That night, as the cold wrapped around us, I stepped outside one last time to take in the view. The mountains stood silently under the starlit sky, and I felt small yet deeply connected to the world around me. It was a day to remember—a day where challenges, beauty, and a sense of wonder came together.
This was the day I had always longed for—the day I would stand at Thorong La Pass, one of the highest trekking passes in the world. It wasn’t just about reaching a destination; it was about pushing my limits and experiencing something extraordinary.
The day began in the freezing darkness. The cold air stung my skin as the wind howled, but we pressed on, guided only by the faint light of our headlamps. Each step was slow and deliberate, the thin air making every breath a challenge. The trail was steep, and fatigue weighed heavy, but the thought of what lay ahead kept me moving.
As the first light of dawn painted the sky, the mountains came to life. Their snowy peaks glistened under the golden rays, standing tall and proud against the vastness of the sky. It was a sight that took my breath away, not just for its beauty but for the overwhelming sense of being a part of something so immense.
Reaching Thorong La Pass at 5,416 meters was more than just a milestone; it was a deeply personal moment. The colorful prayer flags fluttering in the icy wind felt like whispers of hope and triumph. Standing there, surrounded by towering peaks, I felt a mix of emotions—relief, pride, and gratitude. It wasn’t just the altitude that left me breathless; it was the realization that I had made it.
But the journey wasn’t over. From the pass, we began our descent toward Mustang, with Muktinath as our next destination. The trail led us through changing landscapes—from the snowy silence of the pass to the rugged, wind-swept terrain of Mustang. By late afternoon, we reached Muktinath, a sacred place that holds deep spiritual significance.
Walking into Muktinath was like stepping into a sanctuary. The temple, nestled in the rugged beauty of Mustang, felt peaceful and grounding after the intensity of the trek. It was humbling to witness the devotion of pilgrims who had journeyed from far and wide, reminding me that this trek wasn’t just about physical endurance—it was also about finding connection, within and beyond.
As the sun set behind the mountains, the golden light bathed Muktinath, and I felt a sense of calm and fulfillment. This day was not just a journey through the mountains; it was a journey to a place of deeper understanding and gratitude. Some paths challenge the body, and some touch the soul. This one did both, and I’ll carry its memory with me forever.
Pratigya Sedhai is a dedicated QA Engineer with a keen eye for detail and a commitment to ensuring flawless digital experiences. Beyond her expertise in software testing, she is a passionate writer, traveler, and explorer who finds joy in storytelling and discovering new perspectives. Whether she's crafting insightful articles, embarking on new adventures, or diving into the intricacies of quality assurance, Pratigya thrives on curiosity and continuous learning. Her ability to blend analytical thinking with creativity makes her a dynamic professional and an enthusiastic seeker of knowledge and experiences.
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