The Enduring Elegance of Bulaki

Bulaki, a nasal ornament made up of gold, native to Nepal, is a traditional piece of jewelry worn by married women in various communities of Nepal including Rai, Limbu, Magar, Gurung, Thami, and Dalit. it is inserted in a piercing in a septum reaching down to the lower lip. This unique accessory varies in design and size, reflecting the cultural diversity of Nepal and its diaspora.

Typically, Bulaki is crafted of 2-3 gram gold and measures about 2.5 cm in length. It features bilateral symmetry complementing the facial symmetry of the wearer and its overall pointy along with the negative space in some designs directs attention to the wearer’s lips.

Bulaki has three distinct parts:

Upper Portion: This part consists of a circular ring with an opening to insert into the piercing. Wires are wrapped around the ring to add texture and prevent rotation leaving the area near the opening smooth for easy insertion. A pendant hangs from the bottom of the ring, attached with two tiny circular plates that obscure the joints.
Middle Portion: Egg-shaped and pointing towards the lip, this section is bordered with granules. These granules are thin circular pieces of gold, transformed into granules through heating and then hammered into a pyramidal shape before being attached. The middle often features bordered by incisions that reflect the light of the stones filling the space.
Lower Portion: This part features an odd number of spikes, with the central spike pointing downward and the others to the sides, creating a sense of depth. Although symmetrically placed, these spikes have an organic shape reminiscent of a ripe swinging paddy, symbolizing fertility.

The stones on Bulaki are usually red and green, the auspicious colours for married women. The rose color of Bulaki, achieved by heating it in a red mud called geru and polishing it with a brass brush in acid. This glossy finish symbolizes the belief that a woman is the light of a family.

The meaning behind various Bulaki designs

The circular plates in regular Bulaki design might be replaced with spikes or inverted bowls and the shapes of granules could also vary to adjust the ornaments reflectiveness. The choice of stone colors can also be personalized based on the wearer’s zodiac sign. The amount of gold used can vary, indicating the wearer’s economic status..

The design of the spikes on Bulaki can signify the wearer’s caste. For instance, spikes modeled on the trident indicate a lower caste woman, while bent spikes are worn by middle hill communities like Gurung and Managr. Straight, sharp spikes are the characteristic of the Kirant community representing their god Phalgunanda’s trident.

In earlier times, lower caste women were restricted to wear a Bulaki designs meant for upper caste women. It was a punishable crime if she did, and would be banished from the village.

Despite these differences, all Bulakis share the same spiritual purpose. There is a belief that dripping gold-infused water into a dying woman’s mouth helps her achieve ‘mukti’, the liberation from the life and death cycle. The pointed spikes facilitate the water droplets to all easily into the mouth, and the length of Bulaki helps guide the water. In some ethnic groups, Bulaki is unpinned and placed into woman’s mouth before the death rites, believed to expedite her salvation.

Over time, the tradition of wearing this beautiful piece of ornament, Bulaki has waned, with only elderly women from Eastern or Far Western Nepal wearing it regularly. Younger generations tend to wear it occasionally, mainly to complement their traditional outfit during celebrations.